Na semana do dia 20 de janeiro, em Paris, aconteceu a semana de moda de alta-costura, onde várias grifes realizaram desfiles mostrando suas criações mais únicas e luxuosas para 2019. Mas, entre todas as maiores grifes do mercado, quem deixou um grande impacto, não apenas por suas criações, foi o desfile da Valentino.

Comandado por Pierpaolo Piccioli, diretor criativo da grife e vencedor do prêmio de designer do ano no Fashion Awards 2018, o desfile foi planejado para romper paradigmas da moda. Piccioli decidiu ir contra a cultura em que as peças de alta-costura eram feitas exclusivamente para mulheres brancas, como acontecia no passado, por isso levou 38 modelos negras para desfilarem as criações da grife!

Imagem: Pixelformula/SIPA/REX/Shutterstock

Entre os espectadores estavam estilistas renomados como Raf Simons, Clare Waight Keller, Giambattista Valli, Christian Louboutin, e o próprio idealizador da grife, Valentino Garavani. Celebridades também foram convidadas, como a cantora Céline Dion, que se emocionou com o desfile e chegou a viralizar na internet em um vídeo em que enxugava as lágrimas dos olhos.

Após o desfile a cantora foi parabenizar o diretor da marca pessoalmente e disse: “Você devolveu a beleza às mulheres”.

Ela não foi a única que saiu impactada pelo desfile, ele também foi muito elogiado pela crítica. A editora chefe da revista Haper’s Bazar, Justine Picardie, disse que o desfile foi transformador para todos presentes. “É muito raro ver uma coleção que evoque essa emoção coletiva no público — mas essa foi uma dessas ocasiões que uniu a todos, reconhecendo que somos muito sortudos de presenciar tanta criatividade combinada com beleza e autenticidade”, escreveu Justine.

“Para mim, significa mais do que apenas roupas”, Piccioli declarou no backstage do desfile. Ele explicou que o conceito do desfile foi criado pensando na diversidade, em como seria ver as peças de alta-costura, criadas historicamente para serem utilizadas por mulheres brancas, sendo utilizadas por modelos negras. “Hoje, a Valentino precisa ser mais inclusiva. Eu quero que as criações sejam relevantes para os dia de hoje, não para o passado”, disse o diretor.

Como geralmente as peças custam mais do que $10,000, tornar a coleção “inclusiva” foi um desafio para Piccioli. Para ele, a mudança nessa indústria, feita para a uma parte elitizada dos consumidores, precisava começar com a escolha das modelos.

Entre as 38 modelos estavam as novatas Adut Akech e Duckie Thot e também modelos reconhecidas mundialmente como Alek Wek e Liya Kebede, que também são ativistas e filantropas.

Naomi Campbell desfilando

Outra grande surpresa foi reservada apenas para o final do desfile, quando Naomi Campbell fez uma aparição na passarela da grife após 14 anos. Seu retorno foi aclamado pelo público e pela crítica, já que a modelo de 48 anos desfilou com muito estilo, usando um vestido transparente na parte de cima.

Muitas modelos e envolvidos no show utilizaram o Instagram para agradecer à Valentino e Piccioli pela experiência. “Você fez o que ninguém havia feito e acho que não consigo agradecer o suficiente por isso. Eu posso dizer honestamente que essa noite foi a primeira vez que eu estive cercada por tantas modelos negras e lindas, e o sentimento que senti nunca vou conseguir explicar com palavras”, escreveu a modelo Adut Akech para o designer.

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