Na semana do dia 20 de janeiro, em Paris, aconteceu a semana de moda de alta-costura, onde várias grifes realizaram desfiles mostrando suas criações mais únicas e luxuosas para 2019. Mas, entre todas as maiores grifes do mercado, quem deixou um grande impacto, não apenas por suas criações, foi o desfile da Valentino.
Comandado por Pierpaolo Piccioli, diretor criativo da grife e vencedor do prêmio de designer do ano no Fashion Awards 2018, o desfile foi planejado para romper paradigmas da moda. Piccioli decidiu ir contra a cultura em que as peças de alta-costura eram feitas exclusivamente para mulheres brancas, como acontecia no passado, por isso levou 38 modelos negras para desfilarem as criações da grife!

Entre os espectadores estavam estilistas renomados como Raf Simons, Clare Waight Keller, Giambattista Valli, Christian Louboutin, e o próprio idealizador da grife, Valentino Garavani. Celebridades também foram convidadas, como a cantora Céline Dion, que se emocionou com o desfile e chegou a viralizar na internet em um vídeo em que enxugava as lágrimas dos olhos.
Após o desfile a cantora foi parabenizar o diretor da marca pessoalmente e disse: “Você devolveu a beleza às mulheres”.
Ela não foi a única que saiu impactada pelo desfile, ele também foi muito elogiado pela crítica. A editora chefe da revista Haper’s Bazar, Justine Picardie, disse que o desfile foi transformador para todos presentes. “É muito raro ver uma coleção que evoque essa emoção coletiva no público — mas essa foi uma dessas ocasiões que uniu a todos, reconhecendo que somos muito sortudos de presenciar tanta criatividade combinada com beleza e autenticidade”, escreveu Justine.

“Para mim, significa mais do que apenas roupas”, Piccioli declarou no backstage do desfile. Ele explicou que o conceito do desfile foi criado pensando na diversidade, em como seria ver as peças de alta-costura, criadas historicamente para serem utilizadas por mulheres brancas, sendo utilizadas por modelos negras. “Hoje, a Valentino precisa ser mais inclusiva. Eu quero que as criações sejam relevantes para os dia de hoje, não para o passado”, disse o diretor.
Como geralmente as peças custam mais do que $10,000, tornar a coleção “inclusiva” foi um desafio para Piccioli. Para ele, a mudança nessa indústria, feita para a uma parte elitizada dos consumidores, precisava começar com a escolha das modelos.
Entre as 38 modelos estavam as novatas Adut Akech e Duckie Thot e também modelos reconhecidas mundialmente como Alek Wek e Liya Kebede, que também são ativistas e filantropas.

Outra grande surpresa foi reservada apenas para o final do desfile, quando Naomi Campbell fez uma aparição na passarela da grife após 14 anos. Seu retorno foi aclamado pelo público e pela crítica, já que a modelo de 48 anos desfilou com muito estilo, usando um vestido transparente na parte de cima.
Muitas modelos e envolvidos no show utilizaram o Instagram para agradecer à Valentino e Piccioli pela experiência. “Você fez o que ninguém havia feito e acho que não consigo agradecer o suficiente por isso. Eu posso dizer honestamente que essa noite foi a primeira vez que eu estive cercada por tantas modelos negras e lindas, e o sentimento que senti nunca vou conseguir explicar com palavras”, escreveu a modelo Adut Akech para o designer.
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