Outras iniciativas legais de sustentabilidade na moda, o que você pode fazer para contribuir e um grande #fail de uma das mas maiores grifes do mundo.
Olá meninas. Prontas para mais um pouco do assunto sobre sustentabilidade na moda?
Quando a gente fala de sustentabilidade na moda, algumas preocupações são comuns. Elas são chamadas de “princípios globais da moda sustentável”. E aí entra o uso eficiente de água, energia e produtos químicos (você sabia que para produzir uma calça jeans podem ser usados mais de 11 mil litros de água?), ambientes de trabalho respeitosos e seguros, usar materiais diferentes para não sobrecarregar a produção de um só tipo de material, etc. Aqui, vamos falar de dois exemplos bacanas de marcas brasileiras que estão dando um show neste quesito.
Um dos posts da Gioconda no seu perfil do Instagram: #diversidadedefine
Uma marca brasileira que reúne essas preocupações no seu dia-a-dia é a Gioconda. Com sua lingerie fofa (esqueça aqueles itens super sexy, aqui a palavra de ordem é conforto) e modelos com todas as caras, corpos e cores, ela produz um número limitado de peças e a própria estilista leva os tecidos para a modelista, o cortador e a costureira, controlando assim todo o processo produtivo. No final, para evitar o desperdício de tecido, a marca ainda utiliza os retalhos para fazer as embalagens meigas das suas calcinhas.
Esse e outros posts você encontra no perfil da Insecta no Instagram.
Uma marca gaúcha de sapatos. Mas bem no meio de um dos maiores produtores de itens em couro do país e da América Latina, a Insecta tem uma proposta diferente: produzir calçados veganos. Eles são feitos a partir de roupas usadas, algodão ou garrafas plásticas recicladas. A iniciativa da marca é tão bacana, que em 2015 ela faturou o prêmio Ecoera, que busca promover empresas conscientes e multiplicar práticas legais pelas indústrias da moda, beleza e design.
Mas como você pode ajudar?
O seu smartphone pode ser uma arma poderosa, sabia? Existem APPs que podem ser baixados gratuitamente e que ajudam a gente a vigiar o comportamento de algumas marcas.
O meu preferido é o Moda Livre. Disponível tanto para Android quanto para iPhone, este APP foi desenvolvido pela ONG Repórter Brasil, que é uma referência nacional na defesa dos direitos humanos. Ali, você encontra uma lista de marcas que possuem iniciativas para evitar que suas peças sejam produzidas com trabalho escravo. Ele também mostra aquelas que já receberam alguma multa ou estão encarando alguma briga com a justiça sobre este assunto. O seu uso é bem simples: clique no nome da marca que te interessa. Sinal verde: tá tudo liberado. Sinal amarelo: melhor ficar atenta. Sinal vermelho: evite com todas as suas forças.
Mas tem #fail também
Há menos de um mês circulou uma notícia de que a Burberry, marca inglesa de altíssimo luxo – os caras são famosos pela sua capa de chuva, o trench coat, que foi criado há mais de 100 anos e é peça desejo de muita gente (confesso, minha também) – havia incinerado roupas, acessórios e perfumes não vendidos no ano passado, cujo valor chegava a R$ 142 milhões.
Muitas grifes fazem isso para que seus produtos não sejam roubados e vendidos em um mercado paralelo, mais barato, e acreditam que assim estão preservando o valor da marca. Eu não concordo. Mas aí é assunto para outro post. O que me deixou extremamente irritada foi que, segundo a galera do marketing da marca, o gás carbônico emitido com essa queima foi compensado, tornando a ação “ambientalmente sustentável”. Ok, isso passou longe de ser sustentável. O máximo que eles fizeram foi utilizar um processo controlado, onde o impacto foi diminuído, e não compensado. E já vimos aqui mesmo que existem outras formas de se empregar matéria prima neste caso. Os caras poderiam ter reutilizado os tecidos em uma nova coleção, aproveitado cristais, zíperes e outros componentes para fabricar novos itens, e se a gente for listar aqui as possibilidades que eles teriam ao invés de simplesmente queimar tudo, esse post não teria fim.
Mas o que fica de mais importante é que precisamos estar atentas o tempo inteiro. Algumas marcas vão tentar usar os termos sustentabilidade, responsabilidade ambiental e tal, para passar uma imagem de boazinha e tentar convencer de que eles são legais e se preocupam com o planeta. Balela! Nosso papel nesta hora é prestar atenção no que eles estão falando e prestigiar quem realmente está preocupado. Afinal, todos nós somos responsáveis pelo futuro do nosso planeta.
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